Couture Sewing Techniques

This is a book to read and study, lots of carefully detailed text and good photographs of haute couture designs and finishing techniques. Did you know there are at least five different hand basting stitches and even more permanent hand sewing stitches for garment construction? Did you know couture houses don't use paper patterns? That their seam allowances are usually at least one inch wide? That most of their basting is done from the RIGHT side of the garment? That most seam edges are finished by hand -- even into the curve clips? That most garments are constructed entirely by hand? That steaming, shrinking and molding garment sections by pressing are as important to the shaping process as the sewing? And I'm not just talking about pressing seams open here. Wow! And I thought I knew how to sew.

While other books may use "couture" in their titles this book means it. While I've said this isn't for the fainthearted anyone who sews clothing will find some new and accessible technique here. Grab it, keep it near your sewing machine and if you only add one new technique with each project your skill, pride and satisfaction in your work will grow immensely.


Not just pretty pictures   June 19, 2000
susan402
102 out of 102 found this review helpful

Though there are wonderful pictures of couture garments, this is a how-to book. It is filled with detailed instruction and many easy to follow diagrams. "Haute Couture" is defined, and the chapter "Inside the World of Haute Couture" will be of interest to anyone who loves sewing or clothing. Then she goes on to discuss many couture techniques and applies them to a number of garments that any intermediate sewer could duplicate. This is how you get from intermediate to advanced! The best book I've found for information on women's tailoring, and it includes my favorite reference when someone asks me how to make bound buttonholes. If you want to take your sewing to the next level, get this book in your library.


A valuable resource for those who want to go beyond "paint-by-numbers" garment sewing   January 23, 2006
N. Mentor (Boston, MA)
74 out of 75 found this review helpful

Firstly I'd like rebut the comment given by the person who said that the techniques were unnecessary, outdated and could easily be found in the internet. I purchased this book because I couldn't find any website that spoke to the techniques found in this book in any straight-forward detail (The pictures are invaluable). Do a search for "couture sewing" and you'll find sites by ready-to-wear vendors incorrectly labeling their garments 'couture' or fashion schools offering classes.

As to the "outdated" comment, a lot of the garments shown are by the designers when they were alive. So you'll see a Dior or Chanel garment designed by THE Dior and Chanel, not the later designers working for their respective houses. Granted the designs might be considered 'dated' to some, but art doesn't go out of style; and the techniques used in the garment assembly can easily be applied to the latest runway fashions seen today. All you need is a little imagination.

Most people don't have the time to sew every stitch on the garment by hand. Note, though, that this is a book on haute couture technique where handsewing comprises 95% of the work done in couture houses. There IS something to be said for the control provided by handsewing. Most of the mistakes I've done on garments may not have taken place had I sewn by hand because of fabric unintentionally caught up in seams, etc. Also some fabrics are very unforgiving, and cannot withstand repeated machine-sewing/ seam ripping. A little time spent on planning from muslin to garment goes a long way. I find this book user- friendly; easy to read and refer to while working (though it would have been nice if it were spiral-bound). There is an adequate index/glossary in the back and the few unknown terms can be Googled for clarity.

Lastly, I feel that this book is for people who feel that if they're spending time on stitching a classy garment (i.e. wool/linen suit, wedding gown, vintage restoration, historical re-enactment) they might as well spend time on the detail.


Techniques that transform your work from sewing to artwork.   April 8, 1997
47 out of 47 found this review helpful

This is an indispensable guide for anyone who wants to take the next step toward creating exquisite, professional garments. It will transform your sewing from finished to "professionally finished". It is accessible even to beginners who have reached the level of creating a basic garment. The book is clearly written and walks you step-by-step through the most simple hem to complicated padding techniques, frequently using drawings to help visualize the instructions. Shaeffer includes background information and uses for each technique, as well as beautiful color photos of dresses and suits from Schiaparelli, Givenchy, Dior and others as examples. The book is a beautiful piece of publishing on its own, using fine paper, endpapers and backing, making owning the book as pleasureable as working with it. As a student in fashion design at Parsons School of Design in New York City, I have found Couture Sewing Techniques to be the book I turn to most often as a resource for sewing my designs. I couldn't recommend it more highly


A bit disappointing   August 3, 2003
Heidi (San Francisco, CA)
35 out of 47 found this review helpful

After hearing so much regarding this book from peers and followers of Ms. Shaeffer, I was disappointed to find the book offers little in terms of true couture technique -- it seems more of an abridged edition of some of the more complete sewing technique manuals. I am hard-pressed to find anything in this volume that I could not have learned in other, more well-rounded guides, and to top it off, several of the techniques and ALL of the stylings in this book are out dated.

As other reviewers have mentioned, several of the techniques are not accompanied with pictures, and the instructions for some techniques are difficult to understand even with illustration (unless you already understand the techniques -- then why purchase this book?)

I'd purchased this in hopes to add some new techniques to my repertoire, and being that I've already studied seamstressing for many years, I thought this was the ideal place to begin. I was wrong, and regret spending my money on a small volume containing no information I couldn't have found in greater detail on the internet for free.